On The Grapevine

with David Ellis

Seems we're a bubbly lot

We're now the world's biggest consumers of bubbles from France's Lanson Champagnes - including the classic 1996 Gold Label.

Here's a sobering thought for those who tell us that when it comes to wine appreciation, Australians have largely evolved little further than the cheap and cheerful - we now toss down more of one of France's most famous vintage champagnes, Lanson, than any other nation in the world.

And we're also amongst the largest drinkers of one of the more extraordinary of Lanson's vintages of the past decade, the 1996 Gold Label that currently sells for around $90 a bottle.

Lanson dates back to the 1760s, and as one of the oldest Grande Marque Champagne Houses, is also recognised as the only major house in the Champagne region not to use malolactic fermentation; it says single fermentation allows optimal development of its champagne's flavours, maturity and array of aromas.

And for its champagnes to also be released with more bottle age than many other's.

The Champagne Lanson Gold Label Vintage 1996 came from a classic vintage - its powerful and intense freshness on the palate having party-room written all over it - and with the spring racing season and Melbourne Cup not that far off, give it some thought to go with seafood spreads or cheese and fruit platters.

Ideal serving temperature for champagne is around 8 to 10 degrees.

One for the cellar: Leo Buring's reputation for Clare and Eden Valley Rieslings is probably unparalleled, and their just-released Leonay DWI17 Eden Valley 2005 is an absolute gem - so much so you can safely invest in a few bottles now at $32.95, and know it'll not reach its peak until around 2020. So if you can think of something that could be coming up in 15 years time, head for the bottle shop now - this one can only go up in price as the years go by. It has got everything you'd want in a Riesling. And more.