On The Grapevine

with David Ellis

Cheeky challenge may just be right

Spring's around the corner, time to start thinking of wines like this for seafood salads.

NSW winemaker Andrew Birks has thrown down something of a gauntlet to his colleagues in the West, but we suspect little malice in his challenge.

Rather we see it as a further sign that many of our 'new' wine regions are prepared to put their hand up in support of varieties and styles that are proving very well-suited to their environments. And, yes potential challenges.

Andrew believes south-eastern NSW will eventually rival WA's Margaret River for quality dry white wines blended from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, and cites the 2005 Triangle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from Bidgeebong Wines where he is Chief Winemaker.

"Margaret River obviously grows these varieties very well, quite often side by side, resulting in a brace of fresh, crisp, flavoursome dry whites that have grabbed Australian tastes," he says.

But at Bidgeebong, he says, they've taken a slightly different approach to reach the same end: they've used fruit from three areas that each have their own character, producing a wine that's lemony, herbaceous and with tropical fruit aromas, and well balanced on the palate.

Twenty-two percent is Sauvignon Blanc grown 600m up at Tumbarumba in the foothills of the Australian Alps, 14 per cent Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard near Hall on the outskirts of Canberra and about 200m lower than Tumbarumba, and 64 per cent Semillon from the milder Hilltops near Young between the Southern Tablelands and the Riverina Plain.

It's a good result with a value, easy-drinking wine at just $14. Invest in a few for the coming Spring and Summer when thoughts turn to seafood salads.