On The Grapevine

with David Ellis

Grange conquers unkind vintage

Not that it's likely to have you rushing out to buy a bottle or three for investment purposes or for a really special occasion, but the recently-released 2000 Penfolds Grange is only the fifth to be made entirely from Shiraz fruit.

Which possibly gives it a certain amount of added appeal for those who like to dabble in wine investment, as the Grange style is traditionally Penfolds' strongest weapon in its multi-vineyard, multi-district blending philosophy - and which in turn results in Grange's recognition internationally as one of the most consistent of the world's greats.

But 2000 was not a kind year to growers and winemakers in most of Grange's South-Eastern District 'home territory,' with some rain between Christmas and New Year, followed by dry and very hot conditions until March. The result was crops down by 20 to 40 per cent, with the only parcels of fruit suitable for Grange available in the Barossa.

For Penfolds chief winemaker, Peter Gago, it meant one of the lowest volume releases of Grange since the 1960s, and only the fifth ever to be made entirely from Shiraz (the others were the inaugural 1951 vintage, 1952, '63 and '99.)

Despite the challenges of 2000, Peter Gago says the wine will develop through primary and secondary stages, offering different tasting experiences throughout its ageing.

"I'm really pleased at the way it's continually evolving strongly," he says. "Everything augurs well for the future."

Ask your fine wine shop about availability and price.

One for the cellar: Happily pay $27 for Victoria's Macedon Hills' Hanging Rock Winery "Jim Jim" Sauvignon Blanc 2004: It's crisp, clean and begs to be enjoyed long and leisurely with seafood, salads and Italian breads.