On The Grapevine

with David Ellis

Maker's vintage understatement

When asked about the 2004 vintage on his company's The Lodge Hill vineyard near Clare in South Australia, managing director of Jim Barry Wines, Peter Barry, said simply: "It was challenging."

It was masterly understatement. The Lodge Hill that year got just half its average annual rainfall, November was warmer than average, December the hottest for years, then January one of the coolest on record, and February hit back with a 16-day heatwave.

Certainly "challenging," and the more-so for the delicate rieslings for which Jim Barry Wines has such a reputation. But it further attested to the foresight of Peter's late father Jim Barry, who bought the property - 500m up in the ranges to the east of Clare - in 1977 because he considered it some of the greatest riesling country in Australia.

"While that vintage was hardly ideal for riesling," Peter says, "the vines retained their canopy, preventing sunburn of the fruit and allowing slow accumulation of flavour. The Lodge Hill and all our riesling vineyards actually performed remarkably well."

The 2004 is typically steely and minerally, with floral and lime flavours and a long, zesty finish. Invest $19.95 a bottle and enjoy it with homemade or Asian takeaway dishes spiced with lemongrass and coriander.

One for the cellar: Riddoch have released a medium-bodied but quite succulent 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon made from fruit grown on their Katnook Estate vineyard in Coonawarra. There are juicy flavours of berries and mint, and subtle oak. Match it now with richly sauced pasta, anything with spicy or smokey flavours, or put aside to develop until around 2008. Pay $20 a bottle.